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Léonard Autié : ウィキペディア英語版
Léonard Autié

Léonard-Alexis Autié, also Autier〔Di Profio 2003, pp. 43, 534. Babeau 1895, (p. 47 ), gives his surname as Antier. Some sources give his name as Jean-François Autié, a confusion with his youngest brother, also a coiffeur in the atelier Léonard, who died under the guillotine on 7 thermidor an II (25 July 1794); see Péricaud 1908, (pp. 4–6 ); M., "Léonard, le coiffeur de Marie-Antoinette, a-t-il été exécuté ?", (columns 291–293 ) in Duprat 1905, no. 1086 (30 August); and Bord 1909. For countervailing opinion, see Lenôtre 1905, pp. (287 ), (281 ), and Arthur Pougin, (columns 396–399 ) in Duprat 1905, no. 1088 (20 September).〕 (c. 1751 – 20 March 1820), often referred to simply as Monsieur Léonard, was the favourite hairdresser of Queen Marie Antoinette and in 1788–1789 founded the Théâtre de Monsieur,〔Autié's ''privilège'' for the Théâtre de Monsieur commenced on 7 April 1788 and was valid for 30 years (Di Profio 2003, p. 43; Lister 2009, p. 126); the inaugural performance was given on 26 January 1789 (Di Profio 2003, p. 75; Lister 2009, p. 130).〕 "the first resident theatre in France to produce a year-round repertory of Italian opera."〔Lister 2009, p. 130.〕
==Early life and career as a hairdresser==
Born in the medieval town of Pamiers in southwestern France, he was the son of Alexis Autié and Catherine Fournier, who were domestic servants. He spent time in Bordeaux, where he began to work as a hairdresser.〔Bashor 2013, pp. VII, 5–6.〕
In 1769 he moved to Paris, where he began styling the hair of Julie Niébert, an actress at the Théâtre de Nicolet.〔Bashor 2013, pp. 2, 9.〕 His unusual hairstyles immediately attracted attention, and he was soon styling the hair of women of the nobility, including Madame du Barry, Louis XV's mistress〔Bashor 2013 pp 29ff〕 and the Marquise de Langeac, a lady-in-waiting to the Dauphine Marie-Antoinette. By 1772 he had become the hairstylist of the Dauphine herself.〔Bashor 2013, pp. 39–44.〕
In January 1774, at the request of Marie Antoinette, Autié and Rose Bertin (her dressmaker) resuscitated the French fashion magazine, the ''Journal des Dames''. The princess funded the venture, and the financially desperate Baroness de Prinzen agreed to lend her name to the project as the "managing editor". Needless to say, the very first issue was highly laudatory of the Dauphine's dress and hair styles. It also featured a new hairstyle invented by Mademoiselle Bertin, the ''ques-a-co'' ("What is it?"), consisting of three feathers at the back of the head, forming something similar to a question mark. Soon it was worn by all the princesses at court, and even by the king's mistress Madame du Barry. Although Léonard and Rose were "like two good sisters", Léonard could not help feeling a bit jealous, and before long he invented the pouf, which was first worn in April 1774 by the Duchess of Chartres, but was soon adopted by Marie-Antoinette, who made it very popular.〔Bashor 2013, pp. 63–69.〕

File:Title page of the 'Journal des Dames', Paris, Jamuary 1774 - Bashor 2013 p63.jpg|''Journal des Dames'', 1774
File:The 'ques-à-co' hairdo created by Rose Bertin - Histoire de la coiffure des femmes en France 1886 p159 - Google Books.jpg|The hairstyle,
created by Rose Bertin〔Bashor 2013, p. 64.〕
File:Portrait de Marie Antoinette - Boizot 1775.jpg|The ''coiffure à la Zephyr''
on Marie-Antoinette〔Bashor 2013, p. 68.〕

Autié's success allowed him to establish a hair-dressing school and studio, the ''Académie de coiffeur'' ("a virtual House of Léonard"),〔Bashor 2013, p. 49.〕 which was eventually situated in the rue de la Chaussée-d'Antin in Paris. He was joined in this enterprise by his two brothers, Pierre and Jean-François. Jean-François and their cousin Villanou also worked as hairdressers in the household of Marie-Antoinette, while Pierre worked for the king's sister, Madame Elizabeth. Taking advantage of their brother's fame, Pierre and Jean-François also used the name Léonard, creating much confusion for subsequent historians.〔Bashor 2013, p. 49; see also Vuaflart 1916, (pp. 306–308 ).〕
By 1787 Léonard-Alexis had accumulated sufficient wealth that he no longer needed to dress hair for a living. He was still called ''Coiffeur de la Reine'' (Hairdresser to the Queen) and dressed Marie Antoinette's hair on commission for special occasions, such as galas and balls. His youngest brother, Jean-François, was responsible for dressing her hair on a daily basis and also took over as the head of the ''Académie de coiffure''.〔Bashor 2013, p. 112.〕

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